Real Companhia Velha Quinta das Carvalhas Tinto, Douro, Portugal 2018 (£18. uk) With growing season temperatures having increased by an average of 2C over the past half century and set to jump another 2C in the next 50 years, growers all over the world are asking tough questions about whether and how long their existing grape varieties can cope with the changed circumstances. Which raises the intriguing if – for lovers of the traditional, lighter, fresher Bordeaux style – heart-breaking possibility that such sumptuous, richly fruited reds as Quinta das Carvalhas might be the shape and taste of claret to come